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View Full Version : removing transfer case


carpenter
01-14-2012, 11:06 PM
I have a 1995 dodge dakota 4x4. Is there a trick to removing the transfer case off of the transmission? The torsion bar crossmember seems to be in the way.

Carpenter

carverman
01-15-2012, 04:48 PM
I have a 1995 dodge dakota 4x4. Is there a trick to removing the transfer case off of the transmission? The torsion bar crossmember seems to be in the way.

Carpenter

There's always a trick. :D
From my 1998 Haynes manual (Transfer case removal)
1. disconnect neg battery cable
2. Remove skid plate (if equipped)
3. drain transfer case lubricant
4. unplug electrical connector from range indicator switch
5. detach vent hose from transfer case
6. disconnect shift lever rod from the transfer case shift lever. Press
rod out of bushing with adjustable pliers
7. Remove the front and rear driveshafts
8. support the transmission with a floor jack
9. REMOVE THE REAR CROSSMEMBER
10. Support the transfer case with suitable jack
11. Remove the transfer case to transmission nuts
12. Make a final check that all wires/hoses/ have been disconnected
then move the transfer case and it's jack towards the rear of the
vehicle until the transfer case is clear of the transmission.
KEEP THE TRANSFER CASE LEVEL UNTIL THIS IS DONE!
13. Once the input shaft is clear, lower the transfer case and remove it.

carpenter
01-16-2012, 12:37 AM
I have a Haynes manual and I wished the info was correct. I finally had to remove the driver's side torsion bar adjusting bolt. Then we raised the transmission about 1", slid the transfer case back until the bolts cleared and then turned it clockwise and pulled backwards until the shaft cleared.

It simply would not come back far enough with the torsion bolt in place. Is mine a mutant truck?

carpenter

carpenter
01-16-2012, 12:40 AM
Also, the torsion bar crossmember is welded on and could not be removed. So the part about removing the rear crossmember is a little confusing unless they meant for me to cut it out and weld it back in.

carpenter

carverman
01-16-2012, 05:31 AM
I have a Haynes manual and I wished the info was correct. I finally had to remove the driver's side torsion bar adjusting bolt. Then we raised the transmission about 1", slid the transfer case back until the bolts cleared and then turned it clockwise and pulled backwards until the shaft cleared.

It simply would not come back far enough with the torsion bolt in place. Is mine a mutant truck?

carpenter

No,obviously Dodge did some modifications to the stiffness of the frame in
that area..and Haynes didn't keep up with the changes...:D

<extraction from ALLPAR.com>
http://www.allpar.com/trucks/dakota-tech.html

The 4WD frame was completely retooled with enhancements for durability, dimensional control, and stiffness. Improvements included stiffer torsion bar and transmission cross members and deletion of the crossmember for the stabilizer bar, which was relocated from the back to the front of the suspension making a dedicated cross member unnecessary. A stronger optional 4WD transfer case skid plate resulted from increased material thickness and a new mounting arrangement

A multi-purpose rear cross member used on both 2WD and 4WD frames, replacing two cross members and a diagonal brace, contributed to frame torsional stiffness and reduced the possibility of parallelogramming - longitudinal distortion between the side rails. It was riveted to both top and bottom flanges of the frame rails for maximum stiffness benefit. It also provided mounting points for the left shock absorber and the spare tire winch to minimize weight.

carverman
01-16-2012, 05:44 AM
Also, the torsion bar crossmember is welded on and could not be removed. So the part about removing the rear crossmember is a little confusing unless they meant for me to cut it out and weld it back in.

carpenter

No, I don't think Haynes meant for you to cut it out, as it would affect the
stiffness and and would have to be welded back in which really means a new
crossmember. I believe there should be 4 bolts (on each side) to hold it on.

see this link for pics of what it looks like and the bolt holes for mounting
it to the frame...
http://***************/forum/1st-gen-dakota/236648-welded-cross-member.html

In a situation such as this (nothing is every straightforward..is it? :D),

carpenter
01-16-2012, 10:05 PM
Caverman, the link would not work.

There is a forward crossmember under the transmission that has 4 bolts on each side. The torsion bar crossmember is rear of the transfer case about 1.250 inches. It is welded on and there were never any bolt holes in it.

Someone told me that the manual tranny has more room but that does not help me here. Anyway, we got it out and I just have to figure out how to get it back in and put sealant between it and the tranny. That will be a trick.

carpenter

myfiero
02-11-2013, 02:09 PM
I have a Haynes manual and I wished the info was correct. I finally had to remove the driver's side torsion bar adjusting bolt. Then we raised the transmission about 1", slid the transfer case back until the bolts cleared and then turned it clockwise and pulled backwards until the shaft cleared.

It simply would not come back far enough with the torsion bolt in place. Is mine a mutant truck?

carpenter

I think this is going to help when I have to take my xfer case out. It's leaking from the input shaft seal, I think. I hate oil spots in my carport!

Carpenter, did you notice (remember) where the serial number is located on the case? Any secrets to getting it back in? I have a motorcycle jack that makes things like lifting transfer cases and front differentials back in place.

McBride73
02-25-2013, 02:52 AM
i have a 1993 dakota, and didn't have to remove any crossmember to remove my transfer case, although the middle right transfer case to transmission nut was a pain

Gregory7637
02-26-2013, 01:46 PM
Hello, I have the complete (two book series) Manuals for the 96 dakota with pictures and dialog, I could copy and forward the original pages if you think that would help if want them I will need your mailing address.
Gary

myfiero
02-27-2013, 12:00 PM
Hello, I have the complete (two book series) Manuals for the 96 dakota with pictures and dialog, I could copy and forward the original pages if you think that would help if want them I will need your mailing address.
Gary Thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. For now, I'm crawling under every 4 or 5 days with a bit of paper towel and just wiping the seepage. I'm thinking about getting a box of Depends and strapping a diaper on the transfer case where it meets up with the transmission.

I'm considering BUYING the actual shop manuals for my 96, I am finding the Haynes version totally inadequate for my needs. They generalize to all Dakotas what they found on one--and pictures are poor quality and dark. Deserves 2 stars outa 5 imho.